Chapter 44

Chinaberry Farm
Savannah, GA
Summer 1899

They were planted by the birds.

Along the banks of the creek that ran behind the Greene Farm on the outskirts of Savannah were stands of Melia Azedarach, or better known as Chinaberry trees. Their fragrant light purple flowers provided a delicate counterpoint to the Georgia Pine that dominated the area.

Historians date the formal introduction of the tree to Coastal Georgia in the early 1800s. Although, it most commonly thrives in sandy loam, it somehow took root in the Georgia clay and flourished. Originally found in the Orient, they were introduced to the country by a French botanist and adventurer named André Michaux, who grew them his garden in Charleston.

The trees are imposing. Each reaching an impressive 50 feet in height. Their flowers are fragrant, small, and pink to light purple in color. The fruit is about the size of a marble that turns light yellow and wrinkly when mature. The berries stay on the tree through winter and dry and lighten in color. Although Michaux never visited Savannah, he was instrumental in introducing the marvelous specimens with the assistance of birds who helped spread the seeds. The petals of the delicate flowers would drift in the creek and created a living mosaic of color and movement against the moss and stones.

The creek became a source of fascination for every generation who lived on the farm. Barefoot boys spent idyllic hours along the creek collecting rocks, sailing paper boats and teasing tadpoles. Their giggling laughter would rival the babble of the creek. It was most common that these young explorers had a puppy or two who tagged along for the adventure. After the day’s play, the boys, no matter how exhausted they were would patiently remove the burs from their pup’s matted fur.

As a little girl, Addy’s Great-Great Grandmother Fannie would gather the Chinaberry fruit and string them together to make necklaces. She would pretend they were chains of gold. On her sixteenth birthday, her father did buy her that chain of gold. She promised to wear it every day of her life, and she did. Also, as a child she was enamored with the Passion Flowers that grew by the creek banks. She would pick the delicate purple flowers and lace them in her hair. She would dance with imaginary fairy princes and use the flowers pods to carve out small dishes in which she served tea to these mystical beings.

Life on the farm was ideal, wholesome and clean. However, life on the farm carried responsibilities, hard work and chores. Cows had to be milked. Horse stalls had to be tended and the harvesting of crops was an all-family affair. Although, the girls did not work in the fields, they were home industriously working on meals for the family and for the hands. The feeding or the “vittiling” of the men was no small feat. They started with breakfast at sunrise. Country ham with red-eye gravy was laid upon the table. Also served was sausage, bacon, grits, eggs and buttermilk biscuits. The meal was primarily proteins, with the carbohydrate exception of the biscuits and grits. Supposedly, the energy from the proteins helped them work longer, harder and better. Also on every table was homemade tomato conserve and pickle relishes. Pots of scalding hot coffee were consumed. Large tables were set outside to feed the men. As many as 30 to 40 extra hands were brought in to help with the harvest. It was never difficult to get workers at the farm. The Barnes were known to be generous and kind employers and provided the best food in the county. Although the manners of the workers were often crude, there were certain behaviors that were expected. Mrs. Green always required the men to wash their hands and faces in the creek before coming to her table. No one was to eat until all were seated and grace given by Mr. Barnes. She did not allow any profanity and course behavior. Also, the men were welcome to eat as much as they wanted, however, she made sure they cleared their plate. She never did have anyone who tested her on these rules. Primary, due to respect and the courtesy she showed to each man. She knew they worked hard for them and she was grateful for their toils. Also, her table included the men of all races. To her, they were her responsibility and they were working for the common good of the farm.

As soon as the men finished, they headed to the fields for the days work. It is well known that picking cotton and tobacco is hard physical labor. Often the men remained silent as they were working, just in order to conserve energy under the grueling summer sun. Water was constantly being taken to the fields by the Barnes children. They would drive pony carts around to where the workers were. The water was encased in barrels that had been crafted on the farm. The children always had a kind word for the workers and a ready smile. They too understood the importance of what the men were doing.

At 5:00 pm Mrs. Green would ring the bell on the back porch to signal dinner would be served in an hour. The sound would echo throughout the all the fields. Again, the tables groaned with fried chicken, pork chops, apple sauce, coleslaw, pickles, chow-chow, beets, green beans, squash, corn bread, apple butter and fig preserves. Apple pie and blackberry cobbler ended the meals. Pitchers of water and homemade beer where provided.

Everything served had come from the farm. All was appreciated and nothing was wasted.

Life was bountiful.

Country Ham & Red Eye Gravy

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE COUNTRY HAM

1 Tbsp butter
Country Ham Slices 12 ounces or more as desired

FOR THE RED EYE GRAVY

1/2 c. black coffee
1/4 c. water
1 Tbsp butter or more as desired - you can also use bacon grease.
1 tsp honey optional, for a touch of sweetness - you can also use sugar, brown sugar or molasses.
1/2 tsp Southern Conserve Southern Essential Seasoning
Cracked black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large pan and add the country ham slices. Heat a few minutes to warm them through, flipping once. Remove and add to a serving platter.

To the hot pan, add the black coffee, water, Southern Essential Seasoning and extra butter. Bring to a boil and scrape the bottom of the pan to remove any flavorful bits.

Reduce the heat and simmer 8-10 minutes, to thicken and reduce the red eye gravy by half or more. Stir in honey and cracked black pepper to taste.

Serve over the ham. I like to serve country ham with red eye gravy with creamy grits and/or buttermilk biscuits.