To Appleton, 1920

 
old fashioned dining car on a train

Chapter 22

Franklin Wilder’s mid-terms at Cornell had come to an end. His first half term was proven a success. It was driven by his passion and love of his chosen major of architecture. He was now ready for his week off and his trip to Appleton Farms in upstate New York. It was to be the scene of a weeklong house party and hunt.

Franklin’s other passion was his horses. Appleton, which was owned by Avery Northrup had been a place he had visited before with his father. Northrup was known as an excellent breeder of Quarter Horses and the young Franklin had bought two of the beautiful creatures over the past few years. 

Appleton had a magnificent manor house built from stucco and stone. It was a serene and peaceful Greek Revival on Lake Erie. It had a surround of 1100 acres for apple orchards, paddocks and timber. It also had sweeping views of the Canadian shoreline. Northrup was the eighth generation in his family to own the house. It has been built prior to the Revolution. Since its founding, it had annually hosted a hunt and grand ball. Invitations were coveted and people curried favor with the Northrups to receive one. The family were the consummate hosts and the house was designed in the style of old English country houses. It could accommodate up to 50 guests that stayed either in the main house or the property’s cottages The third floor had a ballroom in which musicians would be brought in from New York City. During the hunt week, many business deals were brokered for the horses, timber and crops.

However, the current owner of the estate was unmarried. The ball was no longer held, but business continued as usual.

Franklin’s invitation had been received in the Spring of the year, once he announced he was head to New York for school. His parents knew this would be an important event for him. They contacted Brooks Brother’s in Manhattan and arranged for him to be fitted with clothing appropriate for the week. Everything from Tweeds to Tailcoats were tailored for him. However, what excited him most was the new riding habit and tall black leather boots. A week before, the hunt, the clothier packed a steamer with the clothes and shipped them to Appleton.

One of the aspects of the trip that fascinated Franklin was the train trip from Ithaca to the estate. He loved this form of travel and always went first class. The passing hours would allow him to relax and unwind after the grueling week of exams. The autumnal colors of crimsons and gold from the sugar maples provided him with a true sense of beauty for the upstate.

It was dinner time and Franklin had an eight o’clock seating. The red and gilt salon glowed under the gaslight. He studied his table. It had a spotless white tablecloth, gleaming silver, sparking crystal and china with the New York Central Logo. After perusing the menu, he decided on the Rosemary Grilled Steak with Tomato Conserve.

As was the custom, unaccompanied gentlemen would often the seated with one another. So was the case on this trip. As Franklin was enjoying his sparkling water (prohibition had just been enacted in January of that year) the maître d’ brought a young man about the same age as Franklin to accompany him. The dark and striking young man introduced himself as Sebastian de ’Alba from Havana, Cuba.

He was also traveling to Appleton for the hunt and he had a flask of gin in his jacket.


Rosemary Grilled Steak with Tomato Conserve

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 tsp olive oil

  • 1/2 shallot, finely chopped

  • 2 garlic cloves, minced and divided

  • 1/8 tsp salt

  • 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper, divided

  • 1 tsp minced fresh rosemary

  • 1/4 tsp salt

  • 2 (4-ounce) filets, trimmed (1-inch thick)

  • 1⁄2 c. Tomato Conserve

DIRECTIONS

Prepare grill to medium-high heat. Season steaks with salt and pepper.

In a small nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add shallots to pan and cook 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until softened. Stir in 1 of the minced garlic cloves, and stir, cooking until fragrant, about 30 seconds Add in Tomato Conserve and 1/8 teaspoon of salt. Simmer 12 minutes, so the

flavors will meld. Stir in 1/8 teaspoon of pepper and set aside.

Combine remaining garlic, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, rosemary, and 1/4 teaspoon of salt in a small bowl.

Oil grates of the grill using a paper towel held with tongs. Grill steaks for 3 minutes; turn over. Sprinkle evenly with garlic and rosemary mixture, and continue to grill an additional 3-4 minutes, or until desired degree of doneness.

Remove from grill and allow to rest under foil for at least 5 minutes. Top with Tomato Conserve to serve.


The Southern Conserve is the Products Line from Chef Theodore Paskevich + Donald Holland. It is sold at Provisions SAV and online on our website.

 
 
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